Hue & Shape

Summer family, cool and soft

Cool Summer (true summer) color palette

Blue-based, medium depth, quietly sure of itself.

· By the Hue & Shape team

Not sure you are a Cool Summer?

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Cool summer, also sold as true summer, is the season where the summer qualities are at full strength: a clearly cool undertone, medium depth and colors that are soft without being dusty. Skin often flushes pink or has a rosy, bluish cast. Hair is ash blonde, ash brown or a cool medium brunette, and eyes are blue, gray-blue, cool green or a soft brown without amber.

Its palette is built on blue. Cornflower, sea blue, wisteria, berry and slate all share a blue or violet base, and they sit at a medium value, never icy pale and never close to black. Cool summer can take more color than soft summer, so a rosewood or a clean berry looks fresh rather than strong, but the colors still need a little softness to match skin that is not high contrast.

Palette at a glance

Summer family · Silver, white gold and pewter.

Also called true summer.

The palette

Cool Summer color palette: 36 colors with hex codes

36 colors in six groups. Hex codes are for screens; fabric and print will vary.

Neutrals

  • Cloud#ECEEF2
  • Pewter#9AA0A3
  • Blue Gray#7A8796
  • Slate#5C6B7D
  • Cool Charcoal#4A5058
  • Soft Navy#2F3D55

Lights

  • Ice Blue#C8D8EA
  • Pale Orchid#D8C6DC
  • Shell Rose#ECC8D0
  • Mist Green#CFE0D8
  • Lavender#C3B9E0
  • Silver Sky#D5DDE6

Mid-tones

  • Cornflower#7D9BD1
  • Sea Blue#5E8FA8
  • Wisteria#9B8FC4
  • Sage#A8B8A6
  • Soft Teal#6FA8A2
  • Mauve#B18FB0

Deeps

  • Plum Gray#7C6B80
  • Berry#8E4A63
  • Deep Teal#3F6F73
  • Spruce Blue#3E5A70
  • Grape#5D4A73
  • Denim#4D6A90

Accents

  • Hydrangea Blue#6F8FD6
  • Orchid#A77BB5
  • Jade#5F9E8F
  • Lagoon#4F97AD
  • Periwinkle Blue#8A96D8
  • Iris#7D6FB3

Reds and pinks

  • Dusty Rose#D49AA5
  • Rosewood#A75D6C
  • Raspberry#B5486F
  • Cool Pink#E09AB0
  • Watermelon Rose#D46A85
  • Claret Rose#9C3D5A

On the map

Where cool summer sits among the 12 seasons

Cool summer sits at minus 0.9 on the warmth axis, the second coolest point on the whole map after cool winter at minus 0.95. Depth is 0.45 and clarity 0.58, which puts it near the middle on both. Its nearest neighbor by a wide margin is cool winter, which shares the temperature but is deeper and much clearer. Light summer comes next, milder in coolness and paler, followed by deep winter and then soft summer, the most muted of the three. That geometry explains the two common mix-ups: cool summer with cool winter on contrast, and cool summer with soft summer on how vivid the colors can be.

The twelve color seasons by warmth, depth and clarityLight Spring: warmth 0.55, depth 0.18, clarity 0.62. Warm Spring: warmth 0.95, depth 0.45, clarity 0.72. Bright Spring: warmth 0.5, depth 0.5, clarity 1. Light Summer: warmth -0.45, depth 0.22, clarity 0.5. Cool Summer: warmth -0.9, depth 0.45, clarity 0.58. Soft Summer: warmth -0.35, depth 0.5, clarity 0.22. Soft Autumn: warmth 0.4, depth 0.55, clarity 0.18. Warm Autumn: warmth 0.95, depth 0.62, clarity 0.45. Deep Autumn: warmth 0.6, depth 0.9, clarity 0.5. Deep Winter: warmth -0.5, depth 0.9, clarity 0.72. Cool Winter: warmth -0.95, depth 0.6, clarity 0.88. Bright Winter: warmth -0.35, depth 0.52, clarity 1CoolWarmWarmthLightDeepCool SummerSoft SummerCool Winter
Plotted from the anchors the free color test matches against. Larger dots are clearer, brighter seasons; smaller dots are softer. How the anchors are used

Recognize it

How to tell if you are a cool summer

  • Your skin pinks easily, and in daylight it looks rosy or slightly blue rather than golden.
  • Silver and white gold look brighter on you than yellow gold, which can make the skin look sallow.
  • Natural hair is ash: no red or gold glints in sunlight, even if it is light.
  • You have some contrast between hair and skin, but not the stark dark-and-light of a winter.
  • Blue-based reds such as raspberry look natural on your lips, and orange-reds look out of place.
  • Navy and slate flatter you more than black, which looks heavy at the neckline.

A three-step drape check at home

  1. 1

    In front of a window, with bare skin and hair tied back, hold Cornflower under your chin and then a tangerine orange. Cool summer skin looks even and clear in the cornflower and blotchy or flushed in the orange.

  2. 2

    Now test clarity. Try Raspberry and then a dusty, grayed berry. If the raspberry looks lively but not loud, and the dusty one makes you look a little tired, you are on the clear side of the summer family.

  3. 3

    Last, compare Soft Navy with black. A cool summer looks rested in the navy and slightly hollow-eyed in black, while a cool winter would look sharper and more awake in the black.

Not sure? The free test reads your season from a photo and seven questions, and the photo never leaves your device.

Find my season

Side by side

True summer vs soft summer

Both seasons are cool and both sit around medium depth, so the question is how much color your face can take. True summer coloring has a little more definition, often clearer blue or gray-blue eyes and a rosier skin, and it looks best when each color is clean enough to read as blue, rose or violet at a glance.

Soft summer needs those colors with gray mixed in. A cornflower that looks fresh on a cool summer can look slightly harsh on a soft summer, and the muted sage and mushroom that suit soft summer can make a cool summer look gray around the mouth. People who sit near the line often wear both palettes well, but one set will make the skin look smoother.

The Soft Summer palette
Cool Summer
  • Cornflower #7d9bd1
  • Berry #8e4a63
  • Sea Blue #5e8fa8
  • Raspberry #b5486f
  • Soft Navy #2f3d55
  • Cloud #eceef2

Cornflower, Berry, Sea Blue, Raspberry, Soft Navy, Cloud

Soft Summer
  • Eucalyptus #8aa79b
  • Wedgwood #6f8ba3
  • Dusty Raspberry #9e7480
  • Heather #9e94a6
  • Charcoal Blue #3f4a52
  • Gray Lilac #b4a8bc

Eucalyptus, Wedgwood, Dusty Raspberry, Heather, Charcoal Blue, Gray Lilac

The test that separates them

Hold clean Cornflower and a misty gray-blue under your chin. If the cornflower looks like it belongs and the gray-blue makes you look tired, you are a true summer. If the cornflower stands out more than your eyes do, soft summer is the better fit.

Side by side

Cool summer vs cool winter

These are the two coolest seasons and the closest pair on the map. Cool winter adds depth and much more clarity: its palette has true white, black, sapphire and icy pastels, and it relies on sharp contrast between them. Cool summer works in the softer middle values, where the colors are related to each other rather than set against each other.

Hair and contrast usually decide it. Cool winters tend to have dark hair against lighter skin, or very bright eyes, so the face itself carries strong contrast. A cool summer with ash brown hair and blue-gray eyes looks overpowered by black and white together but comfortable in slate and cloud.

The Cool Winter palette
Cool Summer
  • Dusty Rose #d49aa5
  • Wisteria #9b8fc4
  • Slate #5c6b7d
  • Soft Teal #6fa8a2
  • Plum Gray #7c6b80
  • Ice Blue #c8d8ea

Dusty Rose, Wisteria, Slate, Soft Teal, Plum Gray, Ice Blue

Cool Winter
  • True Red #c8102e
  • Royal Blue #1f4fbf
  • Magenta #c2187a
  • Pure White #ffffff
  • Charcoal #2f3237
  • Emerald #0f7a5a

True Red, Royal Blue, Magenta, Pure White, Charcoal, Emerald

The test that separates them

Wear pure black and optic white together near the face, then Slate with Cloud. If the black and white look striking and your features hold their own, choose cool winter. If your face fades behind them and the slate pairing looks natural, choose cool summer.

Leave out

Cool Summer colors to avoid

Each one with the reason it fights this coloring and a color from the palette that does the same job.

  • Gold

    Warm yellow sits at the opposite end of the wheel from a blue-based skin and makes it look sallow.

    Wear instead: Pewter

  • Orange

    The strongest warm hue, and the most likely to bring out pink or red patches in cool skin.

    Wear instead: Watermelon Rose

  • Warm Beige

    Next to cool coloring, a yellow beige reads as faded rather than neutral.

    Wear instead: Cloud

  • Olive

    A green with a warm, yellow base grays the complexion and dulls blue eyes.

    Wear instead: Sage

  • Rust

    Orange-brown warmth plus a muddy finish makes rosy skin look ruddy.

    Wear instead: Rosewood

  • Camel

    A classic coat color that turns cool skin slightly yellow at the collar.

    Wear instead: Blue Gray

  • Chartreuse

    Acid yellow-green is both warm and very bright, and it casts a green tone onto pink skin.

    Wear instead: Jade

  • Jet Black

    Deeper than anything in the coloring, so it shadows the eyes and hardens the jaw.

    Wear instead: Soft Navy

Wearing it

Cool Summer outfits: six combinations

  • Work

    Soft Navy, Ice Blue, Pewter

    A soft navy suit over an ice blue shirt; pewter in shoes or a belt keeps the outfit to three related cool values.

  • Evening

    Berry, Cloud, Plum Gray

    One berry dress or jacket as the focus, with cloud at the neckline and plum gray below.

  • Casual

    Denim, Dusty Rose, Cloud

    Mid-blue denim, a dusty rose knit and cloud sneakers: the rose sits closest to the face.

  • Summer

    Lagoon, Silver Sky, Mist Green

    A lagoon top with silver sky trousers reads cool in strong sun; mist green works as a light layer.

  • Winter

    Spruce Blue, Wisteria, Slate

    A spruce blue coat with a wisteria scarf gives the outfit its color, and slate carries the rest.

  • Accessories

    Slate, Raspberry, Pewter

    Keep bags and shoes in slate or pewter, and use raspberry in one small item such as a scarf or lip.

Soft contrast, not no contrast

A cool summer outfit needs a light and a medium: cloud and slate, dusty rose and sea blue. All one value looks flat; all one strong color looks like a costume.

Blue is the neutral

Navy, slate and sea blue do the job a black wardrobe does for a winter. Build the basics there.

Keep warm accents away from the face

A tan leather bag is fine at hip level. A tan collar next to the face is not.

Hair

Cool Summer hair color

Shades that suit

  • Ash brown. The core cool summer shade. Ask for a cool or ash toner to keep it from turning brassy between visits.
  • Cool medium brunette. Adds depth for those who want more contrast while staying within the summer range.
  • Ash or beige blonde. Suits lighter cool summers. Keep highlights fine and close to the base color.
  • Soft burgundy brown. A brown with a cool red-violet reflection works with rosy skin and berry lipsticks.
  • Silver and salt and pepper. Cool gray hair sits naturally with the blue-based palette and the silver jewelry it favors.

Shades that fight it

  • Golden or honey blonde. Yellow tones near the face make pink skin look ruddy rather than fresh.
  • Copper and auburn. Orange-red hair puts a warm color right against cool skin and fights the palette.
  • Jet black. Adds winter contrast that the rest of the coloring does not support.

Makeup

Cool Summer makeup: base, cheek, eyes and lips

Base and foundation

Choose a cool or neutral-cool base, usually marked C, P or N depending on the range, and avoid shades described as golden or yellow. Swatch two or three stripes along the jaw and look in daylight after the formula settles. If pinkness is strong, a neutral base evens it better than a very pink one.

Cheek

Rose and soft berry blush placed on the apples and blended back. Peach and bronze blush read as orange on this skin, and heavy bronzer takes the face out of the palette.

  • Cool rose blush #D0879A
  • Soft berry blush #B56A82

Eyes

Mauve, slate, plum gray and soft navy suit blue and gray eyes. A navy or plum liner looks more polished here than black, and fine silvery shimmer works better than gold.

  • Mauve shadow #A98AA6
  • Slate shadow #5F6C7E
  • Navy liner #2D3A58

Lips

Rose, raspberry, berry and a blue-based red are all in range. Coral, orange-red and brown nudes pull warm and make teeth look more yellow.

  • Raspberry #B3466C
  • Cool rose #C77A8B
  • Blue red #A8263F

The base

Metals, jewelry and wardrobe neutrals

Silver, white gold and pewter. Rose gold works if it is a true pink rather than a copper.

Silver, white gold, platinum and pewter are the strongest metals for a true summer, in polished or brushed finishes. Rose gold works when it leans pink; a coppery rose gold reads warm.

Stones in the palette include aquamarine, amethyst, blue topaz, rose quartz and white or gray pearls. A string of creamy yellow pearls is less flattering than a white or silvery one.

  • Cloud
  • Pewter
  • Blue Gray
  • Slate
  • Cool Charcoal
  • Soft Navy

Every depth

Cool Summer on fair, medium and deep skin

Fair skin

Fair cool summers lean on the lights and mid-tones: ice blue, shell rose, cornflower and wisteria. Soft navy and slate replace black as the darkest base. Berry and claret rose work as accents but can dominate in large amounts.

Medium skin

Medium skin carries the full range easily. The accents shine here: lagoon, jade, hydrangea blue and raspberry give color without needing contrast from elsewhere in the outfit.

Deep skin

A cool summer with deep skin wears the deeps and accents best: spruce blue, grape, deep teal, berry and iris. The palest lights such as silver sky can look ashy at the face, so pair them with a deeper color at the neckline.

Questions

Cool Summer questions

Is true summer the same as cool summer?

Yes. Some systems call it true summer, others cool summer. Both names describe the coolest summer: blue-based, medium in depth, soft but not dusty.

What separates cool summer from soft summer?

Saturation. A cool summer looks fresh in clear cornflower and berry; a soft summer needs those colors grayed down. Try a clean berry and a dusty one to see which your face prefers.

Is cool summer the same as cool winter?

No. They share the coolest undertone, but cool winter is deeper and much clearer and wears black, white and jewel tones. Cool summer looks best in softer middle values.

Can a cool summer wear red?

Yes, a blue-red, raspberry or berry red. Tomato, brick and orange-reds make cool skin look flushed.

Can a cool summer wear black?

It is wearable below the waist or in a print. Near the face, soft navy, cool charcoal and slate give depth without shadowing the eyes.

Which hair colors suit a true summer?

Ash brown, cool brunette, beige or ash blonde, soft burgundy brown and natural silver. Avoid golden blonde, copper and jet black.

Is gray a good neutral for cool summer?

Yes, as long as it is a blue or silver gray such as pewter, blue gray or slate. A warm, khaki-leaning gray looks muddy on this coloring.